Raw Shaved Asparagus with Lemon Dressing

Recipe By Chef Jonathan Waxman, from “Italian, My Way”

This is the quintessential late-spring offering. This idea originally came via the cafe at Chez Panisse in Berkeley. Technically chefs don't really "steal" a recipe; we euphemistically "adapt" it. It's a subtle but interesting difference. The use of raw asparagus had tantalized me, but I was too timid. Alice Waters is never timid.

Here's my advice about asparagus: First, please don't serve asparagus from five thousand miles away; it is neither sensible nor tasty. Second, freshness is paramount; the stalks need to be crisp, not limp or tired. Last, not all asparagus are created equal. Look for tips that have not bolted. The leaves should lie flat against the stalk. The spears should taste sweet and almost grassy, and they should need some cleaning (dirt left by the farmer is a good sign of freshness, usually). Shopping for them is the lengthiest portion of the process; the recipe will take about ten minutes. Try and shave the asparagus at the very last second. If you shave them ahead of time, keep them undressed in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

(Photo Credit: Christopher Hirsheimer, from “Italian, My Way”)