NOVA Online | Lost on Everest

Following is the actual plan that the climbers will use to guide their search efforts as they work in the thin air near 27,000 feet.

Research Manual, Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, Everest 1999
Compiled by Jochen Hemmleb 12/98

Approach to Search Area | Location of Chinese Camp | Research Tour 1
Research Tour 2 | Extended Research Tour 2 | Research Tour 3

Approach to Search Area

From Camp V, follow the standard route to Camp VI up the North Ridge to the traverse onto the North Face. Instead of ascending the slopes between the North Ridge and the rib bisecting the Snow Terrace, continue a rising traverse to the foot of the rib at 26,740 (8150 m.).

Follow to broad, ill-defined crest of the rib to the location of the 1975 Chinese Camp VI at 26,970 feet.

Location of the Chinese Camp

UTM grid (X): 3 097 920
UTM grid (Y): 15 493 490

Research Tour 1

Cross Snow Terrace to SW for 560 - 750 feet along the 26,970-foot contour.

Center of search area for body:
UTM grid (X): 3 097 770
UTM grid (Y): 15 493 350

Research Aims:

Possible Identification (check clothing and any bodily features like height, length of arms, etc.)
Equipment check:
- Camera?
- Oxygen set?
- Rope?

Research Tour 2

Cross Snow Terrace to NE (North Ridge) to foot of first orange-brown cliffs, to the right of wide notch bordered by pyramid-shaped tower.

At the foot of the cliffs in the ill-defined gully:
Location of 1924 Camp VI 26,970 feet
UTM grid (X): 3 098 130
UTM grid (Y): 15 493 630

Research Aims:

Equipment Inventory
Oxygen bottles (different types?)

In wide notch on North ridge (27,126 feet):
Location of 1922 Oxygen Dump (4 bottles)

Extended Research Tour 2

Cross Snow Terrace to ENE in a rising traverse to the scree shoulder at the top of the North Ridge at 27,270 feet:

Location of 1938 Camp VI
Shoot Photographs from this site towards Pinnacles (possibly telephoto)

Descend back to the Snow Terrace and follow the rim to the 1924 Camp VI site, keeping immediately beneath the orange-brown cliffs.

Research Tour 3

Ascend the rib towards today's Camp VI. Follow the classic route up the Yellow Band to the prominent ledge half way up the Yellow Band at 27,500 feet:

Location of the 1933 Camp VI

Continue a diagonal ascent to the crest of the Northeast Ridge. Along the flat ridge section before the First Step:

Location of 1933 Ice Axe discovery

Aim: Find Lawrence Wager's Ice Axe that he placed here in exchange for Irvine's.

Continue further up the Northeast Ridge towards the First Step:

Location of old oxygen bottles found by Eric Simonson in 1991? (located beneath large boulder)